You probably know it by now, I like walking. From easy stroll to good hiking, I like walking. Knowing that I left France last August 10th, I had time to get a few kilometers of ways under my feet… What I like on a hike is to bring together the following three highlioghts: 1 a little bit of difficulty because it is from above that it is the most beautiful, 2 a breathtaking landscape, if possible similar to no other and 3 not many people on the way.
The first climb is rough but there are some steps, and in the morning cool air, it goes easy enough. Most of the hike takes place on a plateau, so it has the advantage of a relatively flat path and an extraordinary point of view all the way. This hike is for geology and rock lovers, and also those who delight in observing local wildlife: I was able to watch from afar a wallaby kind of small kangaroo and her little one who kept going in and out of the pocket of his mother. I love my binoculars! On the last point — that of the amount of other people on the track, I left early enough to avoid at the same time the coaches of tourists, as well as the heat which rises quickly at the end of winter in this desert.
Surprisingly, this is one of the only loop hikes that can only be done in one direction a door blocks access in the other direction. I decided not to do the Uluru Climb, you must be surprisingly thick not to see that it is a big no no for the aborigenes Uluru is a sacred site. Two newly retired hikers crossed my path at the beginning of the walk and gave me an excellent advice: walk this circular hike clockwise.
All the panels try to make you to do it in the other direction but a circle is a circle. I meet a few people but mostly I walk alone, i like that. The scenery is breath-taking, I go through steep gorges and pockets of amazing greenery, quite exceptional in this windswept desert landscape.
Walpa Gorge, Kata Tjuta This hike is easy, which surely explains why it feels like a mall on a Saturday afternoon before Christmas. The car park is right at the entrance of the gorge, hence the attraction for non-hikers. And what happens when lots of people gather in a gorge? So much noise! Let me tell you that I did not stay long…. This hike is long and has just enough technical difficulties a little climbing to break the monotony. While the passage in the gorge is beautiful, the rest is less interesting. One of the strong points of this hike was when a large specimen of eagle from Australia took off just 5m from me.
These things are NOT small. I guess that it is the advantage of being on a less travelled path. The path goes up steeply at first, and the view of the valley below is really nice. This hike turns into a passage of rocks and sand in the middle of the bed of the dried river, it is not unpleasant but how slow! Once again, I do not see anyone on the way, I am really wondering what people do when they visit the West MacDonnell ranges?
The hike ends on the apotheosis that are the permanent water holes of Ormiston Gorge. I had the pleasure of swimming in the closest one to the campsite: it is very cold indeed but what a joy in this heat and what great way to get rid of the dust that gets everywhere in the Red Centre!
Tomorrow, I leave Alice Springs and will resume my way north. Ou pas en fait. Et de le prendre. Je suis donc sur une autoroute, pas de doute! I realise I arrived in Australia more than three weeks ago, and I barely published anything here. I have done a lot of stuff, changed state or actually went from a state to a territory , and yet, nothing posted here. Or not. I am busy finding my rhythm and so far, it has not included writing here. I have the luxury of time, and I use it well. This afternoon, I am taking my time. To reach the next big step of my trip, Alice Springs, I had the choice between that and 6h on a very boring normal road, going back from where I came from.
Although I had barely tested the four-wheel drive capacity of my beautiful car so far in the Flinders Range National Park , the choice was quite easy to make. I am moving onward, not backward. It is just 8am when I get on the road, right after getting all my camping stuff back in the car I am getting pretty good at that and after buying my 5. I am quite surprised to find that the first 10km are sealed, but I get to the dirt road fast enough. The way is pretty wide, and overall quite flat and quite straight. I see only two other cars going the other way, one going my direction overtake me at the beginning and I follow another one from afar never getting into the dust cloud we all make.
The colour of the ground goes from dusty beige to red typical of the red centre to dark grey where they tried to even the road. The road conditions are… Interesting! It is just 11am when I stop at the first opportunity on the sealed road, a nice lookout. I have done it! So proud! There is nothing better after all that dust… I meet the wife of the local ranger while sunbathing, and she told me that the water is actually much warmer than it was two weeks ago.
Well, warmer maybe but warm? She also tells me that the increase in air temperature in getting the snakes active… Oh well. I will stay around a little bit more anyway! There are car parks everywhere, like buildings. All over. There are also car parks everywhere on the streets. And here start the game of understanding where you can or cannot park. Basically, that means that you can stay only 2 hours maximum between 8am and 6pm, but as much as you want out of these times, and that you must display a ticket to stay for those two hours in rush hours… Easy!
So far, I managed to find good free parking spots, less than 10 mins walk from my hostel but tomorrow I have until 10 am to move my car! However there is some good coming from all these car parks: there are many blind walls in this city and therefore a rather well-developed street-art culture.
This is one of my favorites places here. The Adelaide Market Hall is a minute walk from the hostel. And it goes on: at least one of the butcher is very honest about his prices and the quality of his meat, I found better bread than I thought I would… On top of that, there are lots of other interesting market stands, though less local: a cheese maker French, German cold meats, Costa Rican coffee, Chinese dim sum… Do not miss!
I forgot that every city in the southern hemisphere has its own botanical garden. I remember the one in Dunedin New Zealand , through which I went every day to go to the local college. Here in Adelaide, they set the bar very high, this place is exceptional and worth the detour. I went there twice, the second time for the free guided tour of am which takes place every day, except days of crazy heatwaves.
I must be honest, I was disappointed by the free visit, even though the volunteer guide made every effort to move forward. I still learned cool things you should see the size of the pine nuts here, they are gigantic! There is also in the heart of the botanical garden a very unique museum the last remaining of that kind in the world : a museum of economic botany? Created in , its purpose was to show to the newly arrived immigrants what they could cultivate, under what conditions, and teach them how to use the local plants — many European plants do not grow in South Australia.
My first visit to the Botanical Garden was actually not on purpose but on myway to the National Wine Center, which is on the edge of the Botanical Gardens, just outside the Central Business District. The building is exceptional, even for those who do not like architecture. But I will be honest with you, I did not come for the architecture, however exceptional! The museum is not very big but very well done, I recommend to spend some time there. As I need to deepen my knowledge of Australian wines, tomorrow I will visit the local wine region of Adelaide Hills and the day after tomorrow I will go through the famous Barossa Valley on my way to the North ….
Tiens si on retardait puis annulait le premier de vos trois vols et donc si on faisait capoter tout votre plan de voyage? Oh joie. Ahahah ahah… Ah. Y a du bon dans toutes situations…. Hop on va partir. Passer aux toilettes? Bref, je pars rapidement de Zurich, direction Dubai. Y a du marbre dans les toilettes quoi. This is the story of a planned and ultra-expected trip to the other side of the world… For those who would not know hello there! Starting with Adelaide, where I write this post live from the hotel room that I booked ahead what a luxury treat!
I had forgotten that one, but it did not forget me, clearly. Last night, I fell in a coma from 22h30 to 3h, then I was wide-eyed awake between 3h and 5h, then re-coma between 5h and 9h I almost missed breakfast. Seriously, missing breakfast! Nothing messes with that, nope. What if we delayed and then canceled the first of your three flights and so we would ruin your entire travel plan? And in addition to that, we will leave a junior employee on her own to face the hordes of discontented travelers.
And to top it off, we will make sure that all hotels around the airport are full because of the ongoing Ryanair strike for good measure. Oh joy. Ahahah ahah… Ah! There is some good in all situations, even the crazy ones…. But here is finally the one and only employee who will ask her resignation after this week end I think , and hop it is , I got my ticket and oh miracle, there is a plane at the boarding gate.
Who comes running to get us to board the plane? Drum rolls … They were so well organized at the check in and boarding that there is a ghost on the plane: a guy who checked in but did not get on the plane … They have to find his luggage if it is there and get it out before we can move on… We take off with 1 hour delay, I can only wonder what will become of my 1h45 connection in Zurich! Oh no! A bathroom stop before boarding? Sweat a bit before the total flying time I have left? All in all, I leave Zurich quite fast, direction Dubai. Ah yes, I got my travel plans changed with the cancellation of the first flight: it will be via Dubai with Emirates, instead of via Singapore with Singapore airlines.
There is marble in the toilets?! And 9 people at least to take care of the boarding. I think of the poor single employee of Bordeaux …. And here I go for the longest part of this trip, 12h flight from Dubai to Adelaide, this time I have a window seat to settle a little better. And as I had to end this trip in style, beside me there is a very old Iranian lady who speaks very little English and who does not understand anything and spreads happily over to my seat just what I wanted an elbow in my ribs every 5 minutes.
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